#] #] ********************* #] "$d_web"'Personal/Home - Hussar/0_[home, garage, yard] maintenance notes.txt' - ??? # www.BillHowell.ca 25Jun023 initial, with files from last decade or so # view in text editor, using constant-width font (eg courier), tabWidth = 3 #48************************************************48 #24************************24 # Table of Contents, generate with : # $ grep "^#]" "$d_web"'Personal/Home - Hussar/0_[home, garage, yard] maintenance notes.txt' | sed "s/^#\]/ /" # ********************* "$d_web"'Personal/Home - Hussar/0_[home, garage, yard] maintenance notes.txt' - ??? Howell quasi-plan for house insulation : Howell - has already done soon after moving in (5-10 years ago) : 13Jun2023 insulate [porchEntry, woodSkirt, cement wall] 25Jun2023 search "insulation values of dry dirt" 25Jun2023 Basement insulation: floors, walls and crawl spaces 25Jun2023 search “house outer insulation and fibregalss versus polyurethane”, other #24************************24 # Setup, ToDos, #] Howell quasi-plan for house insulation : Outside walls - fibreglass Outside basement cement walls, to just below ground level : just use dense polyurethane foam boards with non-[wet, biodegrade]able protective sheet (eg lawn mower, weed whip) OR Mineral aggregate board (Insulbrick) - can't find much information maybe in future, as I already have polyurethane boards Crawl space under [back bedroom, front extension (cmptrRoom)] use dirt!?!?!? : stupid, too much work!! just insulate, protect] outside of wall as with "outside basement cement walls"!! this is exactly what I planned when I moved in : I bought insulation boards for it!! #] Howell - has already done soon after moving in (5-10 years ago) : opened up basement wall [gypRock, fibreGlass insulation], as was obviously a bad idea of previous owner bought polyurethane panels to insulate outside of [basement wall, crawl space]s In first years I [bought parts, built] a [time-controlled, basement-to-outside] ventilation fan to reduce basement humidity. Works well. Overrall, I've been guessing well... Polyurethane board 0.97 to 1.2 (R-5.5 to 6.8) 1.06 (R-6) Mineral aggregate board (Insulbrick)0.41 to 0.7 (R-2.3 to 4) 0.46 (R-2.6) see Todos_priority : House eavestrough main East-North repair [water, wind] damage, install 2*6" supports, main = main part of house ex-extensions House eavestrough downcomers install "normal" downcomers hug wall of house [NE, NW, West patio] House eavestrough silicone sealant for gutter outlets House electrical power line from grid Curtis Jensen info@WestcanPowerServices.com, Scott, was initial phone contact House gas First Call Alberta phto drawing of gas line path (to alley?) #24************************24 08********08 #] ??Oct2024 08********08 #] ??Oct2024 08********08 #] ??Oct2024 08********08 #] ??Oct2024 08********08 #] ??Oct2024 08********08 #] ??Oct2024 08********08 #] ??Oct2024 08********08 #] ??Oct2024 08********08 #] 04Oct2024 [load, transport] 2* old power poles diameter : say 1-1.5 ft * 0.3048 m/ft = 0.4572 m area : pi/4*(power (1.5*0.3048) 2) = 0.164173 m^2 25-30 ft long *0.3048 m/ft = 9.144 m (30 ft) volume = area * length = 0.164173 m^2 * 9.144 m = 1.502 m^3 assume density about same as water (floats, has cracks) : weight each length = 1.502 m^3 * 1,000 kg/m^3 = 1,502 kg Just one old pole section is too heavy for my truck use a 5 ton capacity trailer, how to load? weighter IS OP diamFt lenFt { pi/4*(power (diamFt * 0.3048) 2) * lenFt*0.3048 } qnial> weighter 1.5 30 1,5012 tonnes each pole >> Kelly Frank said he'd provide equipment to [lift, haul] I will pay ?75 $/h? 08********08 #] 26Sep2024 emto Steve: Can you help with my roof? "$d_web"'Personal/Home - Hussar/240510 roof repairs/' : 240926 OldGarage roof: membrane types, East side.jpg via gimp to : 240926 OldGarage roof: membrane types, East side reduced to 6pct.jpg 240926 OldGarage roof: granMem roll-over onto basMem, West side.jpg via gimp to : 240926 OldGarage roof: granMem roll-over onto basMem, West side reduced to 6pct.jpg see my email 08********08 #] 26Sep2024 Rona on--hand Resisto granulated membrane https://www.rona.ca/ not listed at all now!!! X-Iron Rona 403-567-7440 select 4 seasonal only have 2 Sunridge gray 10 2909 Sunridge Way Bowness 5 08********08 #] 11Sep2024 oldGarage, roofEast, 1/2" plywood, calc bottomEdge plywood upslope length newGarage eve overhang 14 1/2" bottom of lower full 4*8' sheets [26, 27 1/2, 28 3/4]" - use 29" alpha angle of slope [40, 30, 35]degrees adjacent/hypotheneuse = cos(alpha) hypotheneuse = adjacent / cos(alpha) = 14 1/2" * cos(30deg) 30deg -> 90deg = pi/2, so 30deg = pi/6 = 0.523599 qnial> pi/6 0.523599 qnial> alphaRad = pi/6 ?undefined identifier: ALPHARAD <***> = PI / qnial> alphaRad := pi/6 0.523599 qnial> alphaDeg := alphaRad *360/2/pi 30. >> OK qnial> adjacent := 14.5 14.5 qnial> hypotheneuse := adjacent / (cos alphaRad) 16.7432 qnial> edgeSlopLen := hypotheneuse + 29 45.7432 >> wow, seems long, but do it? Almost the width of 4*8' sheet! -> avoid cutting, use full sheet, will need immediate support from scaffold. 08********08 #] 10Sep2024 Inland Plastics, Rosedale plant: buy membrane to cover oldGarage roof 403-823-6252, 205 Center Street, Rosedale 1/2 roof : 27' wide, 14'4" slope full roof, say >= (30*35)^2' or 1050 ft^2 Brenda : they only sell through distributors this region: Peavy Mart, UFA, Drumheller UFA - don't carry the tarps Drumheller UFA Petroleum Agency & Cardlock 403-823-2119 Strathmore UFA Farm & Ranch Supply Store 58 Slater Road, Strathmore, AB, T1P 1J2 403-934-6684 she put me on hold... they have a 30*50' size >> I'll pick it up! 08********08 #] 04Sep2024 remove (Unix rm) shingles: do West side now too, build "shingleDam" work will be easier, AFTER I figure out how to load spent West shingles into truck 08********08 #] 02Sep2024 online buy -> Rona: [12*1/2" plywood, 12* stdGrey roof gritted membranes] Rona Strathmore open today until 21:00!!!! 1/2" plywood : https://www.rona.ca/en/product/1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-plywood-spruce-standard-cp12es-0938003 >> no [price, online order] must pick up at store >> easy enough membrane: order surface 40L prep bucket, plus OR[base adhesive membrane, granulateMembrane]? what does neighbor Jason use? base membrane, two types, only one is good (water-proofing) good: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/resisto-33-ft-x-39-in-elastomer-based-self-adhesive-basic-roofing-waterproofing-membrane-65241-7416006 Resisto 33-ft x 39-in Elastomer Based Self Adhesive Basic Roofing Waterproofing Membrane no good: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/resisto-3-ft-x-65-ft-elastomeric-bitumen-self-adhesive-roofing-underlay-00822-7416041 Store is open today!! 08********08 #] 23Jul2024 webSearch "air conditioner efficiency: window versus floor" +-----+ https://www.cnet.com/home/kitchen-and-household/window-air-conditioners-vs-portable-air-conditioners/ Window Air Conditioners vs. Portable Air Conditioners: Which One Is Right for You? Learn the main differences between window and portable AC units. Erin Gobler , Bryan Adams Aug. 16, 2022 3:45 a.m. PT >> stupid analysis, didn't even notice that portables ultimately draw in hot outside air perfect for female sales and dickheads: they can feel the copl airstream and don't think past that to the temperature of the room. +-----+ https://www.businessinsider.com/guides/home/portable-air-conditioners-vs-window-air-conditioners?op=1 Should you buy a portable air conditioner or a window unit? We've tested both and window units are far more efficient and powerful. Written by James Brains; edited by Lisa Sabatini Updated Jul 5, 2023, 2:14 PM MDT We test portable ACs by running them in a 550-square-foot room for two hours to see how much they lower the room's temperature. We run window ACs in a 650-square-foot space for just an hour. We test portable ACs in a smaller room because they are generally rated to cool smaller areas, and the room's windows don't support window units. We test portable units longer because we noticed they take longer to reach a plateau where they no longer decrease the room's temperature. Since the portable ACs run for longer in a smaller room, you'd expect a more significant temp drop. This is not the case. On average, the portable units decreased the room temp by 2.5 degrees Fahrenheit over two hours. The window units dropped the temp 2.6 degrees in one hour. The difference in performance can be attributed to how the hot air is removed. Window air conditioners are mostly situated outside, and the hot air is sucked directly out of the room. Portable units rely on an exhaust hose to get the hot air from the AC to the outdoors. Much of the heat escapes from the poorly insulated hose back into the room before it can make it outside. >> This guy's better, but still doesn't realize that portables draw in hot outside air ultimately. Winner: Window air conditioners We used smart plugs to measure how many kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity the ACs consumed during testing. On average, window units used 0.43 kWh. Portable ACs used more than twice as much, 0.88 kWh, in the same period. As mentioned above, portable units are inherently less efficient since much of the heat they remove from the room ends up back in the room as it escapes from the poorly insulated exhaust hose before it makes it outside. Window ACs don't have this problem since the hot air is released directly outside. >> still dumb, but at least he ran tests that show results, even if he doesn't know why that happens +-----+ https://learnmetrics.com/portable-ac-vs-window-ac/ Portable AC vs Window AC: Which Is Better? (11-Point Comparison) Table of Contents Portable Air Conditioner Vs Window Unit (Summary Of 11 Differences) 1. Portable AC vs Window Unit: Energy Efficiency (Window AC Is 15% More Efficient) 2. Noise Levels (Window AC Units Are Quieter In General) 3. Window Vs Portable AC Cooling Capacity And Room Coverage Comparison 4. Expected Lifespan (Window AC Units Last Longer Than Portable AC Unit) 5. Installation Difficulty (Portable AC Units Are Easier To Install Than Window Units) 6. Voltage Requirements (Portable AC Requires Only Standard Voltage, Window AC Might Require 220/240V) 7. Space Requirements: How Much Space Do Window vs Portable AC Units Take? 8. Venting Requirements: How Difficult It Is To Vent A Portable vs Window AC Unit? 9. Installation Kit: How To Seal A Window For Portable vs Window AC Unit? 10. Portability: Which One Is Easier To Move Around? 11. Cost Of Portable vs Window AC Units Window AC vs Portable AC: Bottomline Hint: If you choose a portable AC unit, invest in dual-hose units. These units have a higher energy efficiency than single-hose units and you don’t run into negative indoor air pressure problems. >> Gives efficiency ratings, and avoids mistake of saying why window A/Cs are more efficient. also mentions negative air pressure issues with portable A/Cs. Not bad overall. 08********08 #] 18Jul2024 Resisto self-adhering granulated membranes: how to glue overlap? https://www.resisto.ca/en/product/granulated-cap-sheet-high-resistance-hr-cap-sheet-1878/ "$d_web"'Personal/Home - Hussar/240926 Resisto granulated membrane installation guide.pdf' guide is GOOD! wasn't clear from [Rona, Resisto] product descriptions (as usual) check what I have - roofing tar or something, but not necessarily adhesive? Black Jack: All-weather roof cement asphalt cement for roofs use in wet or dry conditions seals craks and splits on worn roofs >> Looks great - maybe more for damaged rafter edge East side to overlay onto shingles? Simplest assumption: the granMems (self-adhesive granulated membranes) will be most effective by themselves. >> if I'm wrong, fix it then. 08********08 #] 10Jul2024 roof membrane granulated (granMem) installation key seems to be to screw in 2*4"*18'3.5" at [lower, upper] limits of membrane to prevent slippage spans entire width of roof section slippage take almost all my time, and damages membrane >> I switched to [up, down]-slope orientation of membranes, much easier, better quality with experience 3*staple 1st granMem to hold, remove film to stick rest of granMems don't require staples, just hoild when posingm so as not to slip off roof 08********08 #] 08Jul2024 order 6 Rona granulated membrane green roof membranes for house extension I'll need ~12 more, but I'm short of cash https://www.rona.ca/en/product/resisto-229-ft-x-39-in-granulated-self-adhesive-anti-slip-grey-cap-sheet-09131-7416024 Resisto 22.9-ft x 39-in Granulated Self-Adhesive Anti-Slip Grey Cap Sheet Article #7416024 Item #004020584 Model #09131 Format 39"x23' 1Mx7M Strathmore store (403) 934-4679 >> couldn't order green online >> They also have deckgard membranes! - good for plywood? (nope - polyprop? with UV 08********08 #] 30Jun2024 Cost comparison : shingles versus Resisto self-adhesive membrane materials : granular membrane is 2-3*more expensive labor : shingle is 2-5 times more expensive for install only install-only doesn't include [scaffold setup, shingle [remove, transport, dispose]] (same time to remove, much faster install) shingles use 42$/32.9ft^2 = 1.22 $/ft^2 (range: 40 <= $/(32.9ft^2) <= 60) Resisto membrane 90 $/(60ft * 3.5ft) = 0.43 = granular 190 $/(22ft * 3.5ft) = 2.47 = Total 2.90 1/2 of extension roof : 3*17.5ft long*3.5ft wide full extension : area 2*17.5*3.5 = 122.5 ft2 cost : shingles = 122.5ft^2 * 1.22 $/ft^2 = 150 $ granular only = 122.5ft^2 * 2.47 $/ft^2 = 355 $ membrane + granular = 122.5ft^2 * 2.90 $/ft^2 = 300 $ #08********08 #] 30May2024 eaves : fix most of them, plus basebord replace mainEast main East-North repair [water, wind] damage, install 2*6" supports, main = main part of house ex-extensions downcomers install "normal" downcomers hug wall of house [NE, NW, West patio] extWest remove gutters, set aside to reinstall, to do shingles after power line relocated silicone sealant for gutter outlets 15:35 30May2024 removed eave extEast (extension of house, East side) #08********08 #] 29May2024 Wayne Dundas: First Call Alberta for utilities, search "First Call Alberta" +-----+ https://ab.211.ca/record/1058301/ http://www.albertaonecall.com info@albertaonecall.com led to "click-before-you-dig" +-----+ https://utilitysafety.ca/wheres-the-line/click-before-you-dig/homeowner-overview/ http://www.beforeyoudigpartners.com/ https://onecall.beforeyoudigpartners.com this site is cross-Canada First pet's name : Tyrannosaurus Rex Username : Bill@BillHowell.ca pwd see stuff I posted on mywebSite : http://www.BillHowell.ca/Personal/Home - Hussar/Hussar, 212 First Ave - survey of lot 31Aug2001, manual add [water, electric, gas, sewer] lines.png #08********08 #] 29May2024 Murray Brown: sewer to street, gas to alley sewer line is at 8 feet depth, goes to street, not alley may go [under, to side of] house #08********08 #] 29May2024 setup scaffold: extEast: eave unattached, install "normal" downcomer #08********08 #] 27May2024 Curtis Jensen, Electrical Engineer/Electrician at Westcan Power Services John Jensen's son, lives in Strathmore, works out of Calgary https://www.apollo.io/people/Curtis/Jensen/5e5d39b48f05c40001c87ac0 (587) 534-0549 info@WestcanPowerServices.com Curtis Jensen is on holidays for another 1.5 weeks, but they have people around here who can drop in and look for an estimate 08********08 #] 27May2024 House -> electrical -> power line from grid drawings "$d_web"'Personal/Home - Hussar/' Hussar, 212 First Ave - survey of house alone 31Aug2001.jpg Hussar, 212 First Ave - survey of lot 31Aug2001.jpg Hussar, 212 First Ave - survey of lot - house only shown 31Aug2001.jpg Hussar, 212 First Ave - survey of neighborhood 31Aug2001.jpg gimp [yard, neighborhood] - show [water, electric, gas, sewer] lines Hussar, 212 First Ave - survey of lot 31Aug2001, manual add [water, electric, gas, sewer] lines.xcf water line water valve from street supply - can't find basement entry : 2.71m (8'11") from inside South concrete wall qnial> ((8*12) + 7 + 4) * 2.54 271.78 sewer line into ground in basement : 3.6m (11'9") from West concrete wall (outside edge) of older part of house (not extension) qnial> ((11 * 12) + 9) * 2.54 358.14 0.86m (2'10") West from inside of Kitchen North concrete wall qnial> ((2*12) + 10) * 2.54 86.36 1.2m (4'1") South from inside of Kitchen North concrete wall qnial> ((4*12) + 1) * 2.54 124.46 gas meter is visible, I have NO idea of where gas line goes #08********08 #] 13Jun2023 insulate [porchEntry, woodSkirt, cement wall] CRAP! -15C inside basement walls!!: Infra-Red (IR) Temp: check basement to where cold is coming in ToDos : seal hut cracks, insulate [hut floor add plywood base, patio skirt] #08********08 #] 25Jun2023 search "insulation values of dry dirt" +-----+ https://inspectapedia.com/insulation/R-Value_of_Soil.php What is the R-value for earth, dirt, soil, backfill, or earth berms? How about the R-value of gravel & sand? +--+ Reader question: Sir: Does InspectApedia have an R-value for earth when used as a berm on an exterior concrete house wall? Thank you R.J. Reply: Earth or soil has an R-value of about R 0.25 to R-1.0 per inch at 20% moisture content and other assumptions discussed here Sand or gravel aggregate has an R-valueof about 0.08 to 0.11 per inch at 20% moisture content or less. Some sources quote a much higher R-value for sand and gravel aggregate but you need to look at the thickness or amount of sand or gravel when you see such quots. For example some cite sand and gravel aggregate as providing R 1.11 FOR 8 INCHES of thickness. That's equivalent to an R-value of R 0.1388 per inch, but without considering moisture level. But really, the insulating value of earth depends .... as we elaborate below. A complete table of the R-values of soil and other mateirals is found A short answer to the R-Value of Dirt - about R 0.125 to R 0.25 per inch. Some sources we researched assert that "one inch of 'insulation' is equal to about two feet or more of soil. If we take 'insulation' to be a bit more specific, say the most commonly-used material, fiberglass, that's about R3 /inch for fiberglass, or if we believed the soil R-value rule of thumb about dirt, that's about 24/ 3 = about R 0.8 for arbitrary "dirt" insulation value. If 24" of soil = R3 the R-value of 1" of soil = (3 / 24 ) or R 0.125 - Thanks to reader Timothy Carlson, 8 June 2015 for correcting this calculation. R 0.125 per inch for soil sounds pretty reasonable if we assume about 20% moisture content, and if we consider for comparison or a "sanity check" that the R-value of uninsulated concrete is about R 0.8/inch.[1] Other engineering sources cite the R-value of earth as about R 0.25 per inch or double our calculation. Without normalizing for soil properties and moisture content, these numbers are very arm-waving rules of thumb. But these soil R-values may be rather unreliable given the discussion below about the effects on heat transfer of soil properties and soil moisture. Heck even snow does better, at about R1 per inch. In addition to avoiding the confusion that comes from an unreliable R-value for earth (take R 0.25 if you like), discussions of earth berm housing and underground housing usually consider the effects of thermal mass on building comfort, not just R-values. R-values measure resistance to heat flow or transfer between materials. But thermal mass considers the storage effects of the mass of soil (or concrete block or ?) or other materials that comprise and surround a building. Thermal mass stores heat and returns it during cooler periods, evening out swings in building temperature. So let's keep in mind that while the R-value of two feet of soil outside of a building wall, say, may be between R 0.135 and R 0.5, that 24" of dirt has much greater thermal mass than the same quantity (in equivalent R-value) of an insulating material such as fiberglass or solid foam insulation. What all of this means is that it is a mistake to try to equate thermal mass and insulating values, and it makes no sense to forget about heat flow rates in or out of a structure if you are paying to heat or cool a building. #08********08 #] 25Jun2023 Basement insulation: floors, walls and crawl spaces https://natural-resources.canada.ca/energy-efficiency/homes/make-your-home-more-energy-efficient/keeping-the-heat/section-6-basement-insulation-floors-walls-and-crawl-spaces/15639 Keeping The Heat In - Section 6: Basement insulation: floors, walls and crawl spaces Insulate inside or outside? Insulating on the outside is best, but it is often necessary to insulate from the inside for economical and practical reasons. Sometimes a combination of approaches is required. Examine the advantages of each approach carefully. TECHNICAL NOTE: Some authorities have expressed concern about the possibility of frost action and structural damage when foundations are insulated from the inside. The concern is that frost will penetrate deeper down the outside of the foundation wall. Research has found that this is not a problem. Under some circumstances, such as in soils that are particularly frost-susceptible in extreme climates, there could be a problem caused by some construction techniques. Check with your local building authorities or find out if your neighbours have experienced any difficulties with frost action on their foundation. Disadvantages of outside insulation Digging a trench around the house by hand can be difficult and risky depending on soil type and depth. It is much easier to use machinery but access could be a problem. Storing the dirt can be a problem. Excavation cannot be done in winter and can be a problem in the spring or throughout the year if the property has a high water table. Features such as non-removable steps, paved carports, shrubbery, trees or fences can make the work difficult. Rubble or brick foundations could be partially supported by the soil. Get expert advice before starting. It is expensive to obtain high insulation levels, and the retrofit may detract from the appearance of the house. +-----+ exterior of basement walls: Three types of insulation are used on the exterior of basement walls: rigid mineral wool boards (Howell: NYET!!) high-density polystyrene (Type IV) polyurethane/polyisocyanurate boards. (See Part 4.2, Caulking and other air sealing materials, for more information.) Type IV polystyrene board is the material most commonly used in exterior below-grade applications (see Figure 6-3 and Figure 6-4). +-----+ crawl spaces Insulating the walls is recommended to avoid having to insulate and protect all plumbing pipes and heating distribution systems. Walls can be insulated externally to reduce the internal moisture problems that can develop in damp crawl spaces and to keep the soil below the footings warm. It is also usually easier to insulate the walls than the ceiling above, especially in tight crawl spaces or where joist spacing is uneven. Walls tend to require fewer materials than ceilings. If there is no moisture barrier on the crawl space floor, add one. The minimum barrier should be 0.10 mm (4 mil) clear or opaque polyethylene overlapped, caulked and taped at the seams. Although more difficult to find, white opaque polyethylene brightens the space, shows areas of leakage or vermin entry more readily, and hides moisture or mould that may be on the other side of the plastic. Mechanically fasten the moisture barrier to the walls and all obstructions that it cannot go over such as floor support posts. It should also be sealed to any moisture barrier added to the walls. To prevent the plastic from billowing, as may happen occasionally, hold it down with a few old boards or some smooth scrap material. If there is likely to be any traffic, protect the polyethylene with a length of plastic floor mat. Do not use sand or gravel. #08********08 #] 25Jun2023 search “house outer insulation and fibregalss versus polyurethane”, other Howell quasi-plan : Outside walls - fibreglass Outside basement cement walls - Cementitious foam insulation (if it holds up frozen-soaked) Crawl space under [back bedroom, front extension (cmptrRoom)] use dirt!?!?!? : stupid, too much work!! just insulate, protect] outside of wall as with "outside basement cement walls"!! this is exactly what I planned when I moved in : I bought insulation boards for it!! I also FIRST opened up basement wall inside [gypRock, fibreGlass insulation] as obviously bad idea. In first years I [bought parts, built] a [time-controlled, basement-to-outside] ventilation fan to reduce basement humidity. Works well. Overrall, I've been guessing well... +-----+ https://natural-resources.canada.ca/energy-efficiency/homes/make-your-home-more-energy-efficient/keeping-the-heat/chapter-3-materials/15633 Keeping The Heat In - Section 3: Materials: insulation, house wrap barriers and weatherstripping +--+ 3.1 INSULATION Regulated Cellulose fibre insulation (regulated in Canada in 1979): This commonly used and effective insulation material must meet certain performance standards with respect to flammability, among other things. Asbestos: A product composed entirely of asbestos cannot be sold as a consumer product. Asbestos products applied by spraying must have asbestos fibres coated with a binder during spraying and cannot come loose after drying. This section explains the following insulation types: batt or blanket loose fill cellulose fibre glass fibre mineral fibre (mineral wool or rock wool) rigid board expanded polystyren extruded polystyrene mineral fibre rigid board polyurethane and polyisocyanurate boards spray foam closed-cell polyurethane foam open-cell polyurethane foam cementitious foam reflective bubble foil insulations and radiant barriers Loose-fill insulation - !!!***It is not appropriate for below-grade application.***!!! Loose-fill insulation is suitable for walls and floors and excellent in attics and enclosed spaces, such as roofs, where the space between the joists may be irregular or cluttered with obstacles. You can use it to top up existing insulation in attics and accessible enclosed wall cavities and to fill in cracks and small or uneven spaces. It is not appropriate for below-grade application. Use safety equipment and wear protective clothing during installation. Cementitious foam insulation Recently introduced into Canada, cementitious foam insulation is a non-plastic based non-combustible material with a soft chalky texture. When poured or injected into cavities by a trained installer, it has the consistency of shaving cream and may require some drying out time. This insulation can be used as an air barrier but not a vapour barrier. +--+ Table 3-1 Insulation Values Material (RSI/25.4mm = R/in.) Ranges Design spec or average Polyurethane board 0.97 to 1.2 (R-5.5 to 6.8) 1.06 (R-6) Polyurethane closed-cell spray foam 0.97 to 1.14 (R-5.5 to 6.5) 1.06 (R-6) Polyurethane open-cell spray foam 0.63 to 0.67 (R-3.6 to 3.8) 0.63 (R-3.6) ... Cementitious foam 0.69 (R-3.9) 0.69 (R-3.9) ... Mineral fibre batt 0.53 to 0.7 (R-3 to 4) 0.6 (R-3.4) Wood fibre 0.58 (R-3.3) 0.58 (R-3.3) Mineral fibre, loose fill, poured 0.39 to 0.65 (R-2.2 to 3.7) 0.53 (R-3) ... Fibreboard (beaverboard) 0.41 (R-2.3) 0.41 (R-2.3) Mineral aggregate board (Insulbrick)0.41 to 0.7 (R-2.3 to 4) 0.46 (R-2.6) ... Wood shavings 0.18 to 0.53 (R-1 to 3) 0.42 (R-2.4) Vermiculite* 0.37 to 0.41 (R-2.1 to 2.3) 0.38 (R-2.2) Compressed straw board 0.35 (R-2.0) 0.35 (R-2.0) Eel grass (seaweed) batt 0.53 (R-3) 0.53 (R-3) Cedar logs 0.18 (R-1) 0.18 (R-1) Softwood logs (other than cedar) 0.18 to 0.25 (R-1 to 1.4) 0.22 (R-1.25) Hardwood logs 0.12 (R-0.7) 0.22 (R-1.25) Straw bale 0.23 to 0.28 (R-1.3 to 1.6) 0.26 (R-1.45) dirt 20% moisture 0.12 to 0.25 (inspectapedia.com) +-----+ Suppliers +--+ https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/ideas-how-to/home-repair-and-maintenance/how-to-choose-insulation.html Types of Insulation How to Select Insulation Determine where you need to add insulation. The most effective places in older homes are usually adding it to attics and better insulating basement walls and crawl spaces. >> Howell: I had already concluded that, but my walls are also an issue (future year?) Determine how much additional insulation R-value you need. Determine the type of insulation you need. Calculate the quantity of insulation you should buy. Choose whether you want to undergo a DIY insulation project or get insulation professionally installed. Batts Batts are pre-cut sections of fibreglass or rock wool insulation that are designed for easy handling and use between framing, such as studs and joists. They can be used in floors, walls, attics and ceilings. +--+ https://www.basementsystemscalgary.com/crawl-space-repair/thermal-insulation.html?ppc=msnppc&msn=nw:s;id:;kw:crawl%20space%20floor%20insulation;type:b;ap:;device:;placement:&msclkid=494de7695dd9138ce96583f10473eff2 Crawl Space Insulation Experts in Greater Calgary Prevent mold, moisture & comfort problems with the right insulation Crawl space insulation is important. A number of comfort and energy problems are caused by inadequate or incorrect crawl space insulation. Any crawl space can be wet and damp, so the insulation must hold up in those conditions. We recommend installing a vapor barrier along with proper insulation to prevent mold and moisture problems and keep your home comfortable year-round. When you count on Doug Lacey's Basement Systems for your crawl space insulation needs, we will send out an expert technician to inspect your crawl space and recommend the right services. We have the tools and experience to seal air leaks and install high-performance insulation to help improve your home's comfort and energy efficiency. >> Howell: advice sounds good, but I don't want flammable (they recommend styrofoam) # enddoc